We’ve done maintenance and renovations for this client for many years.  The most recent project was dock repairs.

This client rated our service as Above Average, said we Communicated Well before, during, and after the project, provided the Information He Needed to help him make good choices, said our Contract was Clear and Detailed, the Job was On Budget and On Time, the Jobsite was Clean, Yes he believes that we are Knowledgeable and Professional, Yes he believes we Stand Behind Our Work, we are Better Than Builders He Has Used in The Past.

You want to save on your energy bills and we do too.   You can start with a few simple, inexpensive do it yourself projects like installing cellular shades.  Before you do anything major though,  you should seek the help of an experienced professional.   It is important to do the right things and to do them correctly, or you can end up with more problems than you started with.   Our initial consultation is free.  Call us 207 354 6177 or e mail us info@daggettbuilders.com      Click here for Building Tips & Ideas

Maine Indoor Air Quality Council - Check out their website for articles like the one below and others.

New Construction Guidance – In order of Construction Process:

Site Selection:

• A dry or drainable site is necessary to prevent moisture intrusion and subsequent biological contamination in the home.
• There is a link between the quality of the outdoor air and the quality of the indoor air. A site located away from significant sources of outdoor air pollution is preferred. (Examples: high traffic areas, industry, dry cleaners, bus-idling yards, etc.)

Site Work:

The building and site must provide effective drainage measures to control both surface water and sub-grade water and prevent it from entering the building.

Surface Drainage:

• The finish grade on all sides of the building must be sloping away from the building to prevent water intrusion. Guideline: 4 inches of pitch for every 10 feet.
• Water from gutters and downspouts should be directed away from the building either above or below grade

Sub-grade Drainage

• There should be no disparity between the quality of the home construction and the quality of the foundation on which the home sits. Contractors must understand the importance of the foundation in the quality of the home and its ultimate impact on moisture and IAQ.
• An improperly built foundation can be a primary culprit of air quality problems in homes. The air quality goals when constructing the foundation – no matter which type of foundation the design calls for (basement, slab or crawl space) – are to: prevent moisture (water and vapor) from entering the building through the foundation; let moisture (water and vapor) out if it gets inside; prevent intrusion of soil gases such as radon from entering the building; prevent heat loss in the winter; and prevent pests of all sizes from entering the home. The foundation is part of the “heated envelope” of the building. Designing to control moisture, minimize air leakage and minimize heat loss are just as important in the foundation as in every other part of the building.

Sub-grade drainage

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• Anytime a sub-grade foundation footing, frost-wall, or basement wall is erected in such a manner as to interfere with the normal sub-grade drainage, a system to remove water must be installed. Where possible, sub-grade perimeter drain pipes should be installed and pitched to daylight. If a sump pump is needed to pump the water from the drain pipes to above ground, install a sealed-type container for the sump pump to prevent air and soil gases from entering the building.
• Always place a layer of coarse aggregate material under a basement floor to create a capillary break and to facilitate sub-slab radon mitigation.
  Tip: Crushed rock is widely available in Maine and is economical. Other materials can be used as long as they are coarse and contain no fines.

Moisture Barrier:

• No matter the type of foundation being constructed, a barrier must be installed to keep moisture from getting in. Concrete will absorb water like a sponge if not effectively separated from contact with the moist ground. Barriers must be used on and around all foundation concrete footings, floors and walls, as well as exposed earth/ledge areas to provide an effective isolation from moisture in the ground.
• Efforts must be made throughout the construction process to maintain the integrity of this barrier. This includes sealing all penetrations through the walls and floor.
  Tip:

  Options include foam insulation and/or vapor diffusion or waterproof barriers designed to eliminate contact between the concrete and the ground. Damp-proofing with black tar is only minimally effective at preventing concrete from absorbing moisture.

Insulation of the Foundation

• The foundation must be completely insulated: both its walls and floor. The foundation is a part of the “heated envelope” of the house and should be treated in the same manner as all of the living space regarding heat loss.
  Tip: Installing rigid insulation (extruded polystyrene foam, minimum 1”) under the floor and inside or outside the walls of the foundation is a cost-effective method to insulate the foundation.

Uncontrolled Air leakage:

• The foundation should be made as airtight as possible. Use waterproof caulking and sealants to prevent air from moving in or out of the foundation.

Design Note: Consider the use of an insulated, monolithic slab.

• Less intrusive – Because it is built completely at or above grade, it takes the home completely away from sub-grade water.
• Lowers cost in a number of ways – easy installation of complete insulation and effective vapor barriers – easy to air-tighten – rarely needs any sub-grade drainage
• Useful for difficult sites, such as those with ledge

Handling & Storage of Building Materials:

Building materials that get wet and stay wet during the construction process are at risk for subsequent mold growth in the home.

• Keep building materials delivered to the site protected from rain and snow.
• Intrinsic moisture from the materials used in the construction process (concrete, joint compound, paint, etc.) must be given a means of drying out. Be careful not to “trap” moisture in the components of the building.

Tips:

• Complete frame of house before delivery of weather sensitive materials.
• Installing bituthane on full roof surface is an excellent means of protecting home while waiting for roofing completion/installation. (Refer to manufacturer’s specifications to prevent over-exposure of this material.)
• Dry lumber to 15% moisture content or less before covering. If lumber shows signs of mold growth, use a HEPA vacuum and detergent wash, then dry to 15% moisture content. Sand if needed after drying to remove surface mold.

Framing:

Regardless of the type of framing system used, careful attention to details during the framing stage is necessary to prevent future indoor air quality problems. Framing details most often associated with indoor air quality include: energy efficiency, proper sealing, thermal breaks, accommodating the ventilation system, moisture control, and pest control.

• Seal the sill and band joist area to eliminate potential for air/moisture leakage and pest intrusion.
• Minimize heat loss through the frame of the building by properly sealing and insulating during the framing process. Often, there are pockets or voids in the exterior frame of the house that can only be sealed or insulated during the framing process.
• During the framing process, it is important to think about how continuous air and vapor barriers will be installed. Provisions to accommodate the installation of the air/vapor barrier, particularly at the more difficult junctures behind interior wall partitions and floor systems, should be made during the framing of the home.
  Tip: Consider using pieces of foil-faced foam to seal between floor joists, or installing strips of air/vapor barrier behind where interior walls will intersect the exterior walls so that the continuous air/vapor barrier can be attached to the strips at a later date.
• Try to create some kind of a thermal break for the frame of the house. The wood frame of the house is not as good an insulator as the insulation placed within the frame and can conduct heat to the outside.

Tips:

• Consider using foam sheathing on the interior or exterior of the frame to help reduce heat loss and minimize the risk of cold spots and condensation.
• Consider using a layer of foam insulation between the structural members of window and door headers to help reduce heat loss.
• During the framing process, it is important to think about how the ductwork for the ventilation system will be installed. Keeping the ductwork within the boundaries of the heated envelope will prevent the risk of condensation and subsequent biological contamination, as well as result in a more durable distribution system for the customer.

Durable Exterior Details:

To maintain good air quality in a home, the home itself must remain dry. Water/vapor intrusion into the walls or ceilings of the home can provide the perfect, hidden environment for mold growth. The primary function of the roofing, cladding, drainage plane, sheathing, flashing, windows, doors, and gutters, is to keep water and water vapor from coming into the home. Other indoor air quality concerns associated with the durable exterior details include the prevention of pests from entering the home.

Guiding principle: construct the home so that water goes down, off, and away from the home.

Roofing:

• Prevent water leaks by properly installing the roofing material, flashings, and membranes so that water flows down, off and away from the home.
• When using a ventilated roofing system, ventilate it properly to prevent winter ice dams, leaking, and potential for subsequent mold growth. Please refer to the outside sources noted at the beginning of this guide for detailed guidance and illustrations.
• When using an unventilated roofing system, it is critical to pay close attention to the quality of the air and vapor barriers and the insulation to prevent condensation at leak points. Unventilated roofing systems are not preferred in Maine.
• Use a bituthane membrane on eaves, valleys, roof to wall intersection, and other penetrations such as skylights and stack vents, prior to installing the roofing material.

Drainage Plane:

All cladding will leak, and should not be considered a functioning part of the drainage plane. Cladding is primarily an aesthetic, visual detail.

• A properly installed and sealed drainage plane is essential to prevent water and moisture from leaking into the structure and coming in contact with the frame and insulation of the building. It also serves as the primary means for moisture to flow down, off and away from the building.
• If house wrap is used as a drainage plane, all seams should be properly overlapped and taped or sealed so that it is continuous.
• Penetrations for windows/doors, vent hoods, water spigots, chimneys, and wires must be sealed to the drainage plane.
• All windows and doors must be properly flashed and sealed.
• For wood and fiber cement siding, create a space between siding and drainage plane (a “rain screen”) to allow for drainage of water down and out, and allow moisture to dry from the back of the siding.
• Install insect screen at the base of the rain screen to prevent pests from entering the home.
  Tip:

  Use “cedar breather” when installing cedar shingles. Use 1″ x 3″ vertical strapping when installing clapboards.

Windows & Doors:

The primary indoor air quality principle for windows and doors is energy efficiency. Using energy efficient windows and doors will minimize the amount of cold air that leaks in and reduces the possibility of condensation and resulting mold growth.

• Use low-E glass with argon gas between the panes.
• All windows and doors should be sealed and caulked in place.
• All windows and doors should be properly flashed.
• Select insulated exterior doors with good weather stripping
  Tip: Look for windows that have a good ANSI performance rating.

Insulation

The primary function of insulation is to prevent heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer. Insulation helps to keep inside surfaces of walls and ceilings warm during the heating season, and cool during the summer season, thus preventing the possibility of condensation. In order for insulation to work effectively, it must be protected by properly installed air and vapor barriers. (Exception:

rigid insulation and spray in place foam, if properly sealed, usually create their own air and vapor barriers.)

• Insulation must be properly fitted within the wall and ceiling cavities. Gaps will cause cold spots, creating potential for condensation and subsequent mold growth.
  Tip: Make sure insulation is properly fitted into the wall cavities around and behind electrical boxes, and behind wiring.
  Tip: Installing foam insulation board over the frame of the house creates a thermal break on the frame that reduces the flow of heat and prevents cold spots and subsequent condensation on the frame.
• When using a ventilated roof system, be sure to use baffles to channel air from soffit to attic where it can be ventilated to the outdoors.
• For guidance on selecting appropriate R-value of insulation, refer to state and local codes, (Such as IRC, IECC, NFPA, ASHRAE) and other professional standards. Regional recommendations for the building site climate should also be considered.

Air and Vapor Barriers

• It is critical that both an air and vapor barrier be installed to prevent air and moisture from leaking in or out of the home in an uncontrolled manner. These are generally combined as one product, but can be installed as two separate systems.
  Tip: As noted in previous sections of this document, it is important to consider installation of the air and vapor barriers throughout the construction process.
• It is important to consider the wall between the house and an attached garage as an exterior wall. Insulation, air, and vapor barriers should be installed in the same manner as any other exterior wall so that the garage is “thermally separated” and sealed off from the house, greatly reducing the risk of pollutants from the garage entering the house.

Air Barriers:

Air barriers serve to keep outside air outside and inside air inside, thereby eliminating points where condensation can occur. Air barriers should be:

• Continuous and connected to previously installed portions of the air barrier (see Foundations and Framing sections of this document.)
• Located within building envelope
• Seal all penetrations.

Vapor Barriers:

In Maine, vapor barriers serve to prevent moisture from entering the building envelope from the inside. Vapor barriers should be:

• Applied to warm side of insulation (for Maine climate)
• Continuous and connected to previously installed portions of the vapor barrier (see Foundations and Framing sections of this document.)
• Seal all penetrations
  Tip: Have sealant tape and expandable foam available for subcontractors to repair any penetrations to either barrier. Explain to them the importance of doing so.

Mechanical Systems

Ventilation:

• A controlled ventilation system must be installed in all new residential construction in Maine.
• A fully-ducted heat recovery ventilation system is preferred.
  • It removes stale air and pollutants from the entire home.
  • It provides fresh air to the entire home.
  • It reduces energy costs
  • It increases occupant comfort.
    Tip: Installation of a fully-ducted heat recovery ventilation system is more expensive up front, but yields long-term energy savings.
• All ductwork must be mechanically fastened and properly sealed (not duct tape)
• All ductwork must be protected from construction debris.

Design note

: It is important to accommodate the installation of the heat recovery system during the design phase. Consider use of open web floor trusses.

• It is possible to ventilate a home with an exhaust-only ventilation system comprised of:
  • Bathroom fans vented to the outdoors, never to the attic
  • Kitchen fans vented to the outdoors.
  • A means for allowing fresh, outside air to enter the home
• All gas oven/range appliances must have a range hood direct vented to the outside.
• All clothes dryers should be vented to the outside to prevent high moisture levels in the home

Heating:

• If burning fossil fuel, a sealed-combustion heating unit (direct vented to outside) is preferred so there is no pathway for carbon monoxide (CO) to enter the home. This includes all wood-burning appliances as well as gas burning appliances used for heating. For non-sealed combustion units, a de-pressurization test should be conducted to determine if make-up air is required and to ensure proper operation of the appliance venting system.
• Combustion appliance outdoor vents have a code-regulated setback from exterior windows, doors, overhangs, etc. to prevent infiltration of combustion by-products from entering the home. Refer to manufacturer’s specifications for setback details.
• If using a ducted forced hot air system – use high efficiency filters and install registers in walls rather than floors to minimize intrusion of dust and particulates into registers and keep the air in the home cleaner.
• Never use unvented gas and kerosene heaters indoors.

Design Note: When using a ducted forced hot air system in well insulated homes, providing conditioned air through registers installed just inside exterior walls is not as important as it was before homes were well insulated. Registers supplying conditioned air at interior walls can save money and enhance occupant comfort.

Plumbing:

• Never install plumbing in outside walls
  Tip: Consider insulating cold water pipes that may be prone to condensation in summer months.
• Seal all plumbing penetrations passing through the air and vapor barriers.
• Test the plumbing systems before finishing the interior to maintain access to repair leaks and to prevent water damage to porous materials.

Electrical:

Seal all penetrations of electrical wires with caulk and foam

• Install air tight outlet boxes in exterior walls and insulated ceiling
• Insulate behind and air seal electrical panels that are installed on exterior walls
• When a recessed lighting fixture penetrates the vapor barrier, use insulation-contact (IC rated) recessed lighting fixtures.

Interior Finishing

• Use low or no-VOC paints and finishes
  Tip: Delay occupancy by 3-4 weeks to allow for off-gassing of VOC’s (volatile organic compounds) from paints and finishes. If you cannot delay occupancy, keep the heat at 70 degrees Fahrenheit and open windows 1-2 inches to increase ventilation.
• If using particle board cabinetry or furniture, seal exposed edges to prevent off-gassing of VOCs (volatile organic compounds) or consider using or purchasing solid wood cabinetry and furniture.
• Never install carpet in an area likely to get wet
• Damage to the air and vapor barriers must be sealed and repaired before covering.

Landscaping

Landscaping schemes can sometimes contribute to air quality problems in a home. Plants, shrubs and trees placed too close to the building can contribute to moisture problems and provide easy access points for pests to enter the home.

• Foundation plantings should be set away from the dripline of the roof and at a minimum of 24 inches away from the foundation at full maturity.
  Tip: Place a two-foot wide strip of pea-stone or non-woody mulch, with landscape cloth underneath, to discourage insect and rodent infestation and prevent vegetation from growing next to the foundation.
• Shade trees should be set far enough away from the home to prevent pest access and eliminate foundation damage from root penetration.
• Exterior vents should be kept free of obstacles
• Finish grade should be no less than 8” away from any wood surfaces

Home Performance Specialists

When it comes to seriously tightening up an existing building; we team up with companies who specialize in energy efficiency.

Chris Robinson (owner) is always patient, professional & concerned that the job is done correctly. 

Daggett Builders, Inc is always very attentive to customer satisfaction and to how they might improve!

To whom it may concern:

This letter is to confirm that Daggett Builders, Inc of Cushing, Maine is a customer in good standing with Camden National Bank.  The firm has had accounts with our bank since 1986.

Regards,

Jeffrey Charland

Market Manager

Camden National Bank

Letter of Good Standing

We had roof raked the front of our house, but the back is two stories and we couldn’t reach it.  

We called Crystal on her cell phone and within a short time we had two men up on the roof shoveling and making channels thru the ice on our gutter system. 

The water coming in the upstairs bedroom stopped shortly after they finished their work.  The next day all signs of the water ever having come in were gone.  No damage even to the paint! 

We have no doubt if it hadn’t been for the Daggett’s quick response, we would have had damage in need of repair. 

We have heard friends speak of being pleased when using Daggetts on a project.  Now we have first hand knowledge.

To date your job performance has been generally superb.  The work has been done in  a very timely manner, very neatly, and billed costs have been reasonable considering the sort of work involved.  Chris and crew have been most respectful of the property, clients’ requests – even small ones!

Chris and the two other fellows who worked here so far (whose names I do not recall now) all get A+ in my view.

My only criticisms -and they are few – would involve the use of some materials I personally am not keen on – pressure treated lumber used within a gable wall, and a masonry mix poured around a sill repair.  The PT use I believe I had originally outlined with Chris as not desireable and when the wall was reconstructed and a piece of PT was already built in at 2nd floor level, I felt aggravated by this but chose to let it go as the wall needed to get closed up due to weather.  (Note from Chris – I thanked him for his constructive criticisms and apologized to him for not getting permission to use the piece of PT.  We talked about the masonry mix.  There really wasn’t any other option to fill in the small, oddly shaped space between the stone foundation and the sill.  His concern was that masonry wicks water but I don’t think it will be a problem as the foundation is being waterproofed from the exterior.   We actually like surveys like these because they provide us with specific things we can work to improve on.)  

The process is simple and straightforward.  We listen to what you need and create a plan, in writing, to meet those specific needs. 

There are some very reasonable fees but your peace of mind is well worth the cost.  Whether your project is large or small, we treat it as an important project.   Good communication and follow through are the keys to success. 

The plan will be broken into three phases.   This plan works for people who need help with the design and for those who come to us with construction drawings.  The design phase is complete when you have all of the information you need to get started.

Phase #1   The big picture, a ball park estimate and reasonable assurance that the final project will qualify for a building permit. 

The purpose of Phase #1 is to save you time, money, and to eliminate as many potentially expensive unknowns as possible.  Too many people spend their hard earned dollars and valuable time working out the details of a plan only to find out in the end that the project would cost more than their budget allows, or run into permit problems.  

Phase #2   Provide you with the facts you need to make informed decisions

We and our specialty subcontractors spend the time it takes to help you make informed choices.   We work as a team with the architect or designer to look for efficiencies in the building system, and to minimize or even eliminate the need for change orders.   Taking this next step will help you get exactly what you want for a price you can afford.

Phase #3   Permits, Final Construction Drawings, Detailed Fixed Price Contract, and a Finish Date. 

Our philosophy is that we have nothing to hide and no desire to play games with our clients or the team members.   It is simple and straightforward.  At the end of the design and build process, you end up with: What You Want * On Schedule * On Budget

Building Our Business Through Our Reputation – One Satisfied Customer at a Time 

This project all started with a simple request to jack up a boat shed.    It goes to show that no job is too small.

Background:   Rick Frost wanted to have a small building jacked up and shored up.   Chris went down to the property, came up with a plan, discussed it with Rick, and did the work on time and on budget.    Rick then wanted to have a garage built.

Once the garage was complete, he and his wife Lois decided to remodel the kitchen and build a sunroom addition.

As always, we started by determining what their budget was, what they most wanted, and what was allowable by code and town regulations.   We brought in specialty subcontractors as needed to advise the Frosts, and then came up with a final plan and price.

To read what the Frost family had to say, click on the TESTIMONIALS TAB.

Towns people asked how I was so lucky to get Daggett Builders without waiting. I have and will continue to praise Daggett Builders.”

Trish reported saving $900 on last winter’s heating bill thanks to the renovations.

 You are off to a good start but if you truly want a great job for a good value dig a little deeper to look for clues about their integrity.  This tough economy is bringing out the worst in some people.  

What can you do to protect yourself?   Do your homework and trust your instincts.   Don’t hire someone so desperate for work that they will say and do anything to get the job.  

Involve your contractor in the planning and design phase; expect to pay something for this service.  It will be a bargain in the long run.  You will also get to know your contractor through this preliminary process.  

Daggett Builders, Inc  – Certified Builders

http://www.remodeling.hw.net/lead-safe-practices/contracts-conversations-protect-remodelers-against-rrp-liability.aspx

Daggett Builders, Inc  www.daggettbuilders.com  354 6177

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXZQWQfI1iU

Interview with Gerald Leach of Northeast Fire Sprinkler Corporation in Waldoboro by Daggett Builders, Inc. 

The number one reason to have a sprinkler system is to save lives but there are other benefits as well.  How does a sprinkler system save lives?  It will give you and your family more time to get out of the house safely.  It can save a fireman’s life.  The risk of dying in a fire decreases by about 80%.   It is amazing how quickly a home will burn.  An employee of ours lost his home to fire.  He was working in his garage in the middle of the day when the fire started.   His wife was in the kitchen and his adult son was also there.  He grabbed the fire extinguisher which was handy by and tried to put out the flame but it grew so fast and so furiously he couldn’t manage it.  The flames shot through into the kitchen before he could even warn his wife.  She ran out, his son ran out, and he ran out.  They barely got out with their lives and lost everything.  Imagine if the fire had started at night when everyone was asleep.  What if they had had young children, or an elderly person living there, or pets; what if one of them simply had a sprained ankle?

If saving a life isn’t reason enough, what are the other benefits of having a sprinkler system?  

Property loss is decreased by about 74%.  This includes the irreplaceable items like photos, documents, etc.   The paperwork after a fire can be overwhelming.  Our employee was asked to itemize and produce receipts for every little thing, even the food in his pantry.  

Clean up is usually possible with a wet vac.

You will be able to sleep in your home that same night.

There will be much less smoke damage or odor.

Insurance breaks of 5% to 12%

Adds value to your home and does not depreciate over time.  The system is pretty much maintenance free.  Fire alarms are a very effective life saving device but they do require routine maintenance.

Community savings which could lead to lower property taxes.

They protect nearby homes and trees.

Sprinkler systems are green.  They reduce fire damage by up to 97%, water usage by up to 90%, green house gases by up to 98%, and they reduce the amount of water pollution into the environment.

Fire ponds are not necessary.  Compare the cost of constructing and maintaining a fire pond with a sprinkler at $4,000 to $5,000 per home.

What are the costs?

The national average is $1.61 per square foot but this number is skewed because of the extremely low cost of installing multiple sprinkler systems in tract homes in subdivisions in places where they are mandatory.   Some of the lowest costs are in the southwest where they have been installing sprinkler systems for 80 cents a square foot.  Do to our climate (freezing) and the type of construction (2 story wood homes), the costs average $2.00 to $2.50 per square foot.  Add approximately $1,000 to $1,200 to that price if you are dependent on well water.   Installation will cost a bit more in an existing home because of the need to cut, patch, and repaint.   Gerald says he tries to hide the majority of the piping in closets.

Prices will drop as sprinklers become more common.  

What are the myths?

Malfunctions are rare.  Every sprinkler is designed to operate individually.  They are designed to operate when the heat becomes intense about 155 degrees.  They will not go off because of smoke.  They put out the fire with mists of water, usually at the source.  Compare this to the amount of water that comes out of a fire hose.

Sprinkler heads can be flush mounted and nearly invisible.

Sprinklers are inexpensive to fix after a fire

The facts were provided by Gerald Leach.  The article was written by Crystal Daggett Robinson of Daggett Builders, Inc.   We’ve made every effort to be accurate but to err is human.  Please contact us if you disagree with any of the information provided here.

Daggett Builders, Inc   Tel. 207 354 6177  www.daggettbuilders.com

Gerald .Leach  President                                                                                 

Northeast Fire Sprinkler Corporation                                       

Phone: 207-701-8955

Fax: 207-832-6000

email: gerry@northeastfiresprinkler.com

website: www.northeastfiresprinkler.com

Although radon mitigation will increase the cost of new construction, there are several advantages to the homeowner.  First of all, as new homes become tighter, it is more important than ever to expel radon gases.  Radon is the 2nd leading cause of lung cancer. One in three homes in Maine have elevated concentrations of radon gases.  Radon is basically radio active. It is like getting a very low dose of x-rays on a regular basis.  Another advantage is that the system removes moisture underneath the basement slab.  It works much better than a dehumidifier and for a fraction of the cost. You can also get up to 15 Energy Star Points for having a radon mitigation system.

Daggett Builders, Inc  www.daggettbuilders.com

Owners : Christopher Robinson & Crystal Daggett-Robinson Tel.  270 354 6177  

Building Our Business * One Satisfied Customer At A Time

To see photo captions, move your cursor over each photo.

Trish hired a construction company to build a two story 20′x30′ addition to her home.  She was looking forward to enjoying the view of Thomaston Harbor from her new rooms.  Unfortunately, she was never truly able to use the addition because it leaked so badly.   She lived with that leaky and drafty addition for 20 years before she was financially and psychologically ready to solve her problem.

 What did the original contractors do wrong?   The list is long; here are the highlights.   The windows were “home made” windows made of plate glass and fastened with wooden cleats.   The trim was wrapped with aluminum in a very crude manner.  There were no sills and no insulation, just a little caulk.  The windows were not flashed at all; water poured down through the header trim.  The roof and siding started leaking almost immediately. 

Fortunately, Trish put a halt to the project before wasting any more money.  The room was drafty and never insulated.  That was a blessing because it allowed the moisture to escape between rain storms.  There weren’t many rotten boards to replace.  Unfortunately, though, we had to replace almost everything else.

First noticed rot on left vertical trim board of this window, as well as rot in areas of the inside corner boards.
Pursuit of the origin and extent of the rot necessitated the removal of siding, corner boards, window trim, and eventually the entire window unit.
 

Entire window unit had to be removed.  What an ugly disaster!
 

Rot extended into sheathing and framing and was starting into a portion of the window unit itself!
 

What looks like fire damage is actually ROT!
Ice & water shield originally wrapped around base of clapboards actually trapped the leak from above.
Notice the blackish water stain on cement foundation coming from behind the clapboards.
 

The source:  unsealed flashing and nails improperly driven into what flashing there was at the top of the window.
 

All rotten wood removed and surrounding areas bleached. New framing installed.
All wet insulation replaced.

Proper flashing, ice & water shield, and house wrap installed.
Fortunately, window unit saved.
 

Also, added slope to top of window trim header on problem unit as well as windows to the right.
Those windows also had siding removed and their flashing sealed properly.
 

All tight to the weather. Original window back in place.
 

Inside corner boards replaced.  Azek trim around window and new clapboards installed.
 

Better than new!!   Hugh & Ann Aaron, Cushing, ME

Note:  Daggett Builders, Inc was not the original builder.  This home is fairly new.

Maine Home Design April Issue PDF

This home was featured in Maine Home & Design.  Click on the link to read the article and to see their photos.  Here are some photos that we took ourselves.

The post & beam barns were built in Daggett’s shop, using a combination of old wood and new, and then ferried out to the island. To make new beams match old beams, Daggett replicated the method of construction by using antique hand tools – draw knifes, chisels, and adz. An adz is like an axe, which one has to swing very carefully between ones’ legs. To manage the extraordinary length of the beams, a local saw mill removed a wall in their shop to accomodate the long lumber.

Doors were built using old pine boards, and the strap hinges were hand forged by a blacksmith in Union, Maine.  The door locking mechanism is a spring loaded fly bolt, replicated from the mechanism in an old mill in Pennsylvania

The Block House is actually a new custom home designed by the owner.  Daggett Builders worked closely with the owner, drawing detailed plans as the look was described. Twenty-three foot antique floor boards, tapering from 20″ to 6″ wide, run the length of the house. An antique but versatile cook stove is incorporated into the fireplace. Kitchen cabinets were custom built in Daggett’s shop, and the walnut knobs were turned one-by-one on a lathe.

The bunk house was originally built for lambing, but evolved into practical housing for fishermen and a storage facility. Daggett also constructed a hen house with easy-to-clean stainless steel shelves and a fiberglass floor to supply fresh eggs every morning.

A new cape was built from parts salvaged from a disassembled antique home, and a one-room school house built in the 1700s was moved from the mainland and attached to the cape. There are still children’s initials carved into the walls. Over the mantel is a painting of this same schoolhouse while on the mainland. The walls are plastered and antique floorboards were installed; windows were custom-made in Daggett’s shop using antique glass provided by the owner. Wrought iron hardware was hand forged by a local blacksmith. A woodshed attached to the cape boasts gutters of Douglas fir, bleached to look aged, and an antique downspout.

The generator shed is actually a very high tech building, built to meet the customers needs while conserving the antique look. Daggett consulted with an acoustical engineer who designed an elaborate structure using high tech materials to deaden sound. The little bump out is actually fuel storage for underground LP lines, and the stone wall and the large blocks of stone at the end of the generator shed are part of the cooling system.

The octagon-shaped library sits on a concrete foundation with radiant floor heat covered by a layer of sandstone. The ceiling is vaulted with a “Boston weave” on the roof shingles.

The Wharf House was almost beyond repair, but Daggett rebuilt it with a small bathroom addition. The door came off an old ship.

• Concrete slab was poured on site using modern techniques to mitigate potential moisture problems
• New field stone foundation was constructed
• The original posts and beams were re erected on the foundation
• Structural Insulated Panels were used to provide modern day comfort
• R22 walls and R40 ceiling
• Windows were replicated in Daggett’s shop using cedar frames and restoration glass imported from Germany
• Doors were replicated in Daggett’s shop using mahogany
• All the trim was replicated in Daggett’s shop using Cyprus
• Radiant floor heat was used so there would be no visible sign of a modern heating system
• Wireless lights and a security system were made to be as unobtrusive as possible
• Walls and ceilings are plaster as per the original structure

July 12, 2008: Sail Loft Complete; Opening Ceremony

Is your budget really tight?   Hire a professional to handle the difficult parts of the project and do the rest yourself.  That will result in a true cost savings.   Choose a contractor who is open, honest, and who will patiently answer your questions.  Don’t agree to anything unless you are 100% comfortable.  

Your comments are welcome!   Daggett Builders, Inc    www.daggettbuilders.com

Tel.  207 354 6177   Owners:  Christoper Robinson & Crystal Daggett Robinson

Building Our Business * One Satisfied Customer At A Time

This woman is fighting the contractor’s insurance company.  They are the ones who asked us to go talk to her.  She thinks that they will pay to have the job done correctly.  Unfortunately, there is no insurance for choosing an incompetent contractor.   

She is retired and spent most of her life savings creating this garage apartment for her daughter/caregiver.  Chris gave her a price to demolish and then completely re do what the other contractor did.  

He is very afraid she is going to hire another “low baller” to take over where the last guy left off and cosmetically cover it up.    If she does, she is taking the risk that the place will either collapse or catch on fire. 

This contractor truly didn’t have a clue.  The support beams were left hanging in mid air.  The problems with the stairs are too numerous to list.  He did the electrical, plumbing, and earth work himself.  None of it works; he is not licensed.  He has no money and lacks the skills to fix the problem. 

They had been given a proposal by another contractor but it wasn’t descriptive enough for them to truly tell what was included and what was not included.  They had a preliminary sketch but they only had one copy and the other contractor kept it. 

We told them that saving money by doing some of the work themselves was a good plan. We told them that we would contact the architect to get a copy of the sketch, come out, look at the job, give them a detailed contract and a price for the work we felt should be done professionally, and then let them finish up themselves. 

 When we arrived though, it was obvious that they were getting impatient with the process.  They had contacted several contractors and had given each of them a slightly different scope of work.  They didn’t think there was a significant difference between what they had told the various contractors but, in reality, there was.  The variations would affect the price and the aesthetics.    

The new bids would be as useless as the first one because every contractor was pricing something a little different.  We recommended that they go back to the architect who had done the preliminary sketch and work with him to finalize the plans and draw up a set of construction drawings. 

We pointed out to them that no matter who they decided to hire, they would be well served to have the construction drawings to refer to in case of a dispute.  

 A picture is worth a thousand words.   A good contractor can build almost anything from a drawing on the back of a napkin, but you are relying heavily on the relationship you have with your contractor and their technical ability.   

If you have a budget and a desire to get the most you can from your hard earned dollars, spend the money on a detailed set of plans and choose a reputable contractor.    

We have them lined up for another job and will continue to use them in the future. We have also enjoyed the goat sitting services from the Ask a Mainer web site. We always know our pets will be well cared for when we go away.”

The contractor put up sheetrock to make it look like the job was well underway,  took a $100,000 progress payment from the owner, used it to pay his back taxes, and went out of business. 

Several of the contractor’s subcontractors went bankrupt because of it.  They were especially upset because they had been working for this particular contractor for years and considered him a friend.  

A Residential Fire Sprinkler System is slated to be standard code effective January 2011.   While it may not be mandatory where you live, it is certainly worth learning more about.   Your local fire chief is an excellent resource.  The Home Fire Sprinkler Coalition is another great resource.  We have their packet of information which includes a DVD entitled: Build for Quality, Build for Life.  

This is an update from Adam Miceli, Asst. Fire Chief in Rockland

I noticed your “Biz Brief” on the Village Soup page and wanted to give you the heads up that it appears that the Maine building code adoption committee (name?) decided not to include the sprinkler mandate as required in both the IRC and NFPA 101. Short of the legislature doing a 180 on this issue, the sprinklers likely will not go statewide until another revision of the Code is adopted in the future. Here in Rockland, we still have a new one and two family dwelling sprinkler requirement as we adopted NFPA 101, 2009 into ordinance last fall. We’ve been contacted by other communities looking to adopt ordinances at the local level due the State dropping the ball.
 
Thank you for promoting the information on home fire sprinklers. It is nice to see a home builder that has taken the time to look into this very important safety feature. If you ever want more information or have any questions you cannot find answers to readily, please do not hesitate to call me.
 
Adam Miceli
Asst. Fire Chief
RocklandFire/EMS

Here is some information put out by the Home Fire Sprinkler Coalition.  

HOME FIRE SPRINKLER COALITION

An Independent Non Commercial Organization

Mission:   To educate the public about the life saving value of home sprinkler systems.

Facts :              Fire Sprinklers Always Activate Individually

                        The Sensors React to Extremely High Heat, Not Smoke

                        Sprinklers are Typically Supplied by the Household Water Main

                        A Tank and Pump Can be Used for Homes on Wells

Post your comments pro and con on Daggett Builders Face Book Page.  We want to know what you think.

However, things can change quickly in a tough economy.   Not all honest contractors are good business people.  They don’t charge enough to cover their operating expenses or overspend and before they know it, they are in over their heads.  

When your contractor is in trouble, it becomes a nightmare for you.  The subcontractors and suppliers start coming directly to you to ask for payment.   It doesn’t matter to them that you paid your contractor in full.  They want to be paid too.   They may walk off the job.  They may take back materials to try to recuperate their loses.  They may even be able to put a lien on your property.    

You can protect yourself by thoroughly checking your contractor’s background before signing a contract, by requiring signed lean releases, and by trusting your instincts.    

Some states require contractors and subcontractors to provide lean releases.  Here is a link to a sample lien release   http://www.lni.wa.gov/Forms/pdf/625029a0.pdf

From Your Contractor’s References

Many homeowners want to check references but they aren’t sure what questions to ask.

Often, people don’t even bother to check references. They believe “no one will provide a poor reference”.  The fact is, if you don’t check references, you make it easy for the unscrupulous contractor to succeed.  Your contractor should be able to provide a long list of references for you to choose from.  You may discover that someone you know has used them in the past.

Prepare a list of 5 to 10 questions to ask each person. Obtain a rating on timeliness, quality, cleanliness, adherence to price and professionalism. Confirm the project that the contractor performed. Being prepared for the reference calls will give you a quick way to determine who is better.

Basic questions you may want to ask:

• Did they start when they said they would?
• Did they clean up daily?
• Was the price quoted what you paid?  If not, why not?
• Where there any problems during the job…and how did they handle it?
• Were they courteous to everyone in your home?
• Have they stood behind their warrantee?
• Would you recommend them to someone else?
• Why did you choose them and not the other guys?

Add any other questions that are important to you to this list. 

We hope this Reference Guide helps you get the information you need to make the best choice when it comes to hiring, evaluating and working with a professional contractor.

We are providing this as a service so you can make the best decision possible in hiring a contractor, regardless of who you decide to go with.

Walk around a neighborhood and take special note of the roofs. Notice how important the proportions are. If the proportion is slightly off, it detracts significantly from the home and it is not an easy fix.

I personally love the look of the villages in Europe and I especially love the roofs. I’m not necessarily a big fan of the strict design codes they have in Europe, especially in Switzerland, but I do have to admit that the Swiss villages are among the prettiest.  The roofs are uniformly beautiful.

 Before Chris and I designed our home in Maine we spent a lot of time walking around observing the architecture in Europe. When we saw a home that we found particularly charming we analyzed it to determine what it was that made it so nice. A pattern evolved. The home did not have to be “fancy”, it could in fact be very simple, but it absolutely had to have the right proportions.

The long low roof lines of some of those farm houses give an impression of cozy protection but inside the homes tend to be too dark. We know, we lived in one. There has to be some compromise. There is no one best style.

One of my favorite books is about the architectural designs of Charles and Henry Greene. These brothers managed to borrow from the best European and Asian designs and come up with something which, I think, symbolizes the American character.

The “big picture” is often lost in the details. That doesn’t have to happen to you. You may have to make compromises but you end up with a beautiful home inside and out. Start with a team consisting of  yourself, a designer, a builder, and the builder’s specialty subcontractors.  If you choose the right people, you will get the best value for your money.

Daggett Builders, Inc   www.daggettbuilders.com  Tel. 207 354 6177

Your relationship with some of these subcontractors, especially the ones who install your plumbing, heating/cooling, and electrical components will likely be long term.  It is preferable to start with people you trust to do the job correctly, who will take the time to educate you about your systems, and who will respond quickly in an emergency. 

Your builder and his subcontractors can provide invaluable advice during the design phase.   Choose a builder you trust and invite his team to work with your architect right from inception.  Ask your builder who the subcontractors will be and ask to meet them before you sign the contract. 

Low bidders may not get detailed written quotes from reliable subcontractors in advance.  When the contract is signed, they scramble to find the cheapest people they can to get the job done.  Sometimes subcontractors bid too low out of desperation.  Will they put off your job for more profitable jobs whenever they get the opportunity?  Will they let their worker’s comp & liability insurance lapse?  Will they take short cuts?  Beware!

The contract is crucial.  The only way you will truly know if you will be getting what you want is to have it in writing.   Your builder’s contracts with his subcontractors should be just as detailed and should match what he has promised to you.

Lien releases are also important.  Many contractors in this market are bidding low, too low.  They have oral agreements with their subcontractors or very sketchy written contracts.   When they eventually find themselves backed against the wall, they play all kinds of unethical games with their subcontractors.   They may not even pay their subcontractors.  When this happens, you lose out.  The subcontractors may walk out on the job or do shoddy work just to get out of there as quickly and as cheaply as possible.  They may even come after you for payment.

Contractors who take the time to educate you, who put everything they promise into writing, who seem to be looking out for your best interest, and who have a good reputation will never be the low bid but they will give you peace of mind.

What You Want, On Budget, and On Schedule.

Daggett Builders, Inc www.daggettbuilders.com    Tel. 207 354 6177

Owners:  Christopher Robinson & Crystal Daggett Robinson

Colonial Americans placed pineapples, a rare and expensive fruit, on their tables as a symbol of welcome, good cheer, and human warmth. Sea Captains stuck pineapples on their gates to announce their return from sea and to welcome visitors. Visiting was the primary means of entertainment, cultural intercourse and news dissemination. The concept of hospitality – the warmth, charm and style with which guests were taken into the home – was a central element of the society’s daily emotional life.

As our world grows more hectic and homogeneous, the need to express one’s individuality and appreciation of family and friends becomes more apparent. What better symbol for a company committed to helping people build their dream home than the pineapple.  Many of our customers are repeat and referrals because we strive to meet their needs and to make them feel respected and valued. Therefore, we chose to use the enduring icon of the colonial pineapple as our logo, a truly American fruit symbolizing our founding society’s abiding commitment to hospitality as well as its fondest memories of families, friends and good times.

…some information borrowed from Hoag Levin’s “Symbolism of the Pineapple Being the Brief and Colorful History of a Truly American Fruit.”

Daggett Builders, Inc  Tel. 207 354 6177  www.daggettbuilders.com

Building Our Business * One Satisfied Customer At A Time

Owners:  Christopher Robinson & Crystal Daggett Robinson

Daggett Builders, Inc  Tel. 207 354 6177  www.daggettbuilders.com

From: Remodeling magazine 2010

• Posted on: April 7, 2010

Careful Contracts, Conversations Protect Remodelers Against RRP Liability

By:

Leah Thayer

Two weeks until the EPA’s lead paint law takes effect on April 22, which means it’s high time not only to review the work practices and certifications that have received so much attention lately – but also your contracts.

“The stakes are very, very high” for remodelers, says construction and real estate lawyer Andrea Goldman of the EPA’s Lead: Renovation, Repair, and Painting (RRP) rule. For starters, the EPA can assess heavy fines against contractors (up to $37,500 per violation per day) for not complying with the rule, which will impact work on homes built before 1978. Many remodelers have been scrambling to get the firm and employee certifications that the rule requires, despite a widely reported shortage of training providers in many parts of the country.

Then there are the legal stakes. “You cannot shield yourself from liability,” says Goldman, of The Law Office of Andrea Goldman, Newton, Mass. Lawsuits emerging from the rule could make it fairly easy for homeowners to point fingers at their general contractor if a child or other occupant of the home tests positive for lead poisoning, regardless of when or how that person was exposed.

She suggests a number of proactive steps with regard to your contracts, adding that it’s always safest to consult a lawyer for direct legal advice.

Homeowner Contracts

Before you begin any work in a home built before 1978, Goldman says, give clients a copy of the pamphlet Renovate Right: Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Providers and Schools (available from EPA by clicking here). Be sure that clients understand the rule, and provide them with proof of your firm and employee certifications (EPA will provide you with the green logo shown here, as well as certification numbers).

Then, prepare and have clients sign an agreement specific to the RRP covering points such as:

• They received the pamphlet before the work began.

• Their home has/has not been tested for lead paint. (If the house has been tested, and no lead paint has been found, they acknowledge that you are not required to use lead-safe practices.)

• They understand the lead-safe practices that will be followed.

• They acknowledge that high winds or other variables could delay work.

Goldman (see contact info at the bottom of article) has produced a contract for her clients that covers these items and more. You can also download a sample pre-renovation disclosure form here from EPA.

“The main thing is for contractors to provide homeowners with the pamphlet and to get them to put in writing that they understand the facts,” Goldman says. Between a signed contract and the contractor’s good-faith effort to educate and work safely, “it’s hard, psychologically, for homeowners to file a claim against you,” she believes.

Subcontractor Contracts

The RRP rule applies to any trade performing work that disturbs the minimum area of lead-painted surfaces. This means that not only must your firm and at least one of your on-site employees be RRP certified for work in pre-1978 homes, but so must your electricians, plumbers, HVAC contractors, and other trade contractors.

Unless, of course, you want to allocate the time and resources of your own RRP-certified staff to train subs in lead-safe measures, oversee their cleanup, and more. In that case, says Goldman, “You’re taking on a lot of liability and supervisory responsibility that you might not want to have.”

Besides requiring your trade contractors to have proof of EPA firm- and renovator certifications, Goldman advises that your contracts with them:

• Include an indemnification clause making the subcontractor liable for his part of the work that requires lead-containment procedures.

• Clearly spell out subcontractors’ scope of work, including lead containment procedures.

• Make final payment contingent upon subcontractors’ completion of all documentation required by the EPA.

Full coverage of the RRP and its impact on remodelers.

RRP information from EPA, including a fact sheet updated April 5.

www.daggettbuilders.com

Renovations * Design/Build * Handyman Projects

1. A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words
2. Does Your Plan Fit Your Budget?
3. Interview First / Then Decide Who You Want To Bid
4. Research The Reputation Of Your Builder & Designer
5. Read The “Scope of Work” In The Contract Very Carefully
6. Review Your Builder’s Subcontracts For Clarity & Detail
7. Require Lien Releases
8. Stick To The Plan
9. Let Your Enthusiasm Show
10. Don’t Worry / Be Happy

Note:  We would love to hear what you have to say about this article.  Please post your comments on our Facebook Page   Click on the DISCUSSIONS TAB

1. A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words

All projects large or small need to start with some type of plan.   A picture is truly worth a thousand words.  Do you want to run the risk of being surprised or disappointed with the final result?   A designer or architect has the training and skill to produce a detailed design based on your individual needs and desires – a design that will enhance the value of your home.

The drawings and specifications become a vital part of the final contract.  Your team (you, your designer, your builder, and your builder’s subcontractors) will all have the opportunity to review the drawings and come up with a plan to provide you with the best possible outcome.  The job will run more smoothly and there will be few surprises or changes.  You will not only save money but will also get the most value for your money

1. Paying for a plan you can’t afford

This is a common scenario – don’t let it happen to you.    The clients have spent many long hours planning and dreaming.  They have a “final” plan in hand and send it out to bid.  They are excited and in a hurry to get started.    The bids come in but the clients are shocked at the price.  How could this be?  Some clients actually hire several architects/designers and get multiple bids before they finally end up with a plan they like and can afford.

You need to be very clear about your budget and your expectations from the start.   Do not try to outsmart your designer by low balling your budget and then making expensive choices as if money doesn’t matter.   Designers can be prone to getting swept up in your excitement.  If they sense that you are not serious about your budget they may end up designing something you cannot afford but that you have your heart set on.  You might make decisions you will regret later.

There are several things you can do to avoid this pitfall.   Start with a very basic sketch and try using this building cost calculator.   http://www.building-cost.net/   Ask your designer what the range of square foot prices are in your area.  Don’t forget to adjust it upward for properties that are difficult to access, remote, steep, wet. etc.  Visit your local code enforcement officer to ask if the design you have in mind will likely meet with approval.  Start interviewing builders at the beginning of the design process.  You will get to know them through working with them.  Quickly narrow your choice down to the one you want to incorporate into your design/build team.  Your builder’s input will be very valuable; it is worth paying for.   If it is a remodel, it would be wise to hire a builder to inspect the property and to even do some surgical demolition before you get to far into the design process. 

1. Interview First, Then Decide Who Will Bid On Your Project

You have your heart set on a new home or a remodel project. You decide to keep putting it out to bid until you find the contractor who will promise to give you what you want at a price you can afford.    This is a dangerous game to play.  You are paying for a service, not buying a car.  A detailed bid takes time to produce.   Builders cannot afford to bid every job; they appreciate a client who takes the time to get to know them before asking for a price.  You may be lucky enough to find someone who will work for very little or even at a loss; they won’t be able to do it for long.  They may have to put your job on hold while they make money elsewhere and they will almost always send uninsured people to work on your project, creating a liability issue for you.  

1. Research The Reputation Of Your Builder & Designer

Ask for references and consider the sources when you weigh the responses.  Go on line and check them out with the Better Business Bureau.  Get a credit report from a reliable source such as Dun & Bradstreet.  Contact their insurance companies.  Do they have adequate worker’s comp and liability insurance?  Do they tend to let it lapse? Trust your instincts but also do your homework.

1. Read The “Scope of Work” In The Contract Very Carefully

Review this with your builder and designer/architect to make sure there is sufficient detail to avoid any miscommunication.   The “Scope of Work” should ideally refer to a detailed plan with specifications.    Go to www.maine.gov  to see the Attorney General’s Model Contract for the minimum contract requirements.

1. Review Your Builder’s Subcontracts For Clarity & Detail

The contracts your builder has with his subcontractors are as important as the contract you have with your builder.  You should know the details and the terms as the last thing you want is to have to settle a dispute between your builder and the subcontractors.

1. Require Lien Releases

If you do not know your builder well, get signed lien releases from his subcontractors and vendors before you make any payments.  If you live too far away to inspect the work yourself, ask your builder to send you photos on a regular basis by e mail.  Ask the builder’s subcontractors to submit photos along with their lien releases.

1. Stick To The Plan

Changes are expensive; try to minimize them.   The initial contract should spell out the change order procedure, payments, lien releases, etc.  Don’t change the rules in the middle of the process and don’t leave your builder out of the loop by making side agreements with employees and subcontractors.

1. Let Your Enthusiasm Show

Trust but verify.  Encourage your team to make suggestions.  Show your enthusiasm for the project.  It will inspire your team.

1. Don’t Worry / Be Happy

Focus on assembling a winning team.  Be fair and straightforward with them.   Rest assured they will make every effort to make you happy! 

1. Choose the site carefully.   Look for a knoll where there will be good natural drainage.  If this is not possible, you will have to artificially create a good drainage system.   This is not a place to pinch pennies.  You do not want water in or near your foundation. Consider where your septic system will be.  It should ideally be downhill from your home to allow for a gravity feed.
2. Choose the best company you can find to do the concrete work.  Again, this is not a place to choose a great bargain over quality.  Listen to their advice and ask what their policies are.  Their contract should be very detailed as to what is acceptable and what is not.   Do not hire a company that simply gives you a price and a brief description of the work. 
3. Decide how you will insulate your foundation.   We highly recommend Insulated Concrete Forms, also known as ICF Blocks.   If you are not familiar with ICF blocks, there is lots of excellent information on the web.  Insulating the foundation will significantly reduce your fuel costs.
4. Talk to your contractor about waterproofing the foundation.  Ask him for specifics. What type of material will they use under the floor, how will it be compacted, will they put plastic under the floor before pouring the concrete, and how thick will that plastic be.  How will they waterproof the walls?  How will your contractor prevent water from traveling up through the concrete via capillary action and into the sill plate?  We still see newer homes with rotted sills because this was overlooked.
5. What provisions are you making to mitigate radon?  It is far better to assume there is radon and to at least put in the basic infrastructure. 
6. Double check the work as it is being done.   Mistakes happen and they cannot be easily corrected.  The person overseeing the concrete work should be familiar with the conditions necessary to get a good pour.   Before the pour begins, double check the forms to ensure the measurements are accurate and that everything will be level.  
7. The earthwork around the foundation is as important as the concrete.    You should, again, listen to the advice of your concrete company and your contractor.  Make sure your contract has all of the necessary details; don’t just take someone’s word for something this important.  Your contractor should be there to oversee the timing and the type of material being used around your foundation.    You want a material which will promote good drainage.   You should also think about making the long term maintenance of your home as easy, and therefore as inexpensive, as possible.  Is the slope next to your home too steep for a ladder or staging?  In most cases, your earthwork contractor can create a terrace for this purpose. 
8. Once your foundation is in place, do not sabotage the drainage area by adding loam past the height recommended by your contractor.   Keep a good distance between your foundation and large plants.   Make it as easy as possible for someone to work on your home without damaging your plants.  This will save you money and headaches down the road.     Mice love to run through gardens, under junipers, and trees.   If you have a bird feeder too close to the house you will really encourage them to make their home near your home.   The Swiss usually have a 3-5’ solid surface perimeter around their home.  They use tiles, concrete squares with pebbles imbedded into them, or pavers.   This surface protects the ground from erosion, prevents dirt from splashing up onto the house, and makes for a nice, clean, flat area for home maintenance projects.

It was a challenge and a treat to build something so well-engineered.

To start with, the building site dropped off steeply toward the water, so two forty-foot steel posts had to be placed standing straight up in the concrete with no framing to support them. These posts were designed to run from the basement, continue up through the deck of the dining room, and support the cupola. In addition to complex roof lines and floor elevations, built-in storage was designed into every nook and cranny. Everything, including tables, beds, vanities, closets, and other furniture, was built by Daggett’s meticulous craftsmen, either in our shop or on site.

The semi-open dinning room, living room, and study are on three different levels. There is baseboard heat and a humidification system, but the architect cleverly designed them to be concealed. A shaft of natural light emanates from the cupola area to illuminate the dining room. The fireplace in the living room was masterfully designed and built in a collaborative effort of stonemason, homeowner, and architect. They painstakingly examined each and every stone for desired color and fit to provide extremely tight joints.

Additional Photos

These are three common problems.

 The doors & windows leak.

This can happen when the overhang is not sufficient to keep the water from splashing up against the house and forcing itself under the doors.  It is especially bad when the roof is large, high, and steep.

Rain and snow collect on parts of the roof.  The snow has to be raked by hand.

Look at the proposed design and picture what will happen in a heavy storm.  Where will the rain and snow collect, even temporarily?  These areas will have to be addressed.   If the roof isn’t designed so that the snow will slide off easily it will collect and you will have to remove it by hand.   Do you want to rely on a heat tape or go out and shovel the snow off of your roof?  Do you want leaks to occur where two roofs meet?  If not, design it so that nature will do the work for you. 

The rain and snow falling off the roof is causing damage below.

Take note where the run off will go.  Will it cause erosion problems?  Will it accumulate and pose problems?  Could falling snow and ice cause damage or even create a danger?

Can you design your roof to minimize or even eliminate the need for gutters?    Gutters need maintenance or they will cause more problems than they solve. 

We welcome your comments and questions.  E mail us info@daggettbuilders.com

Face Book Discussions   Daggett Builders Face Book

  www.daggettbuilders.com

Tel.  207 354 6177

PRESERVING TREATED WOOD

Source:  http://www.schultzinspect.com/html/treated_lumber.html

Even though lumber may be kiln-dried before treatment to approximately 19% moisture content, using water-borne preservatives increases the moisture content – possible to as much as 75%. This causes the wood to initially swell then shrink as it is exposed to the air and the wood comes into equilibrium with the environment. If this shrinkage is too rapid, as is often the case with full sun exposure, the wood is likely to crack and distort.

A water-repellent sealer should be applied at the time of construction, or as otherwise recommended by the wood or sealer manufacturer, to help slow this initial shrinkage and prevent further damage from wetting-drying cycles. Some treated-wood products are now available with water repellency built in through the addition of water repellents to the preservative solution.

Too much moisture in the wood, however, may prevent the stain or paint from penetrating the wood sufficiently. It is best to test the wood by painting or staining a scrap piece to see if it applies properly. If not, wait until it reaches moisture equilibrium. While some latex paint products are available for finishing treated wood , semi-transparent, oil-based stains work best. A water repellent should be applied annually. If you do not have time to wait for the wood to equal equilibrium you can purchase wood marked “KDAT” (Kiln-dried after treatment). This wood should be ready for an immediate sealer treatment.

But all treated wood should be cleaned and re-sealed yearly to maintain optimum appearance.

Unprotected lumber will also begin to change color and darken as a result of the wood’s reaction to ultraviolet (UV) rays of the sun. Sealants with UV inhibitors will protect the finished paint film from deterioration; those with a UV “absorber” are more effective in minimizing changes to the natural wood pigment itself, an important consideration when using clear finishes.

Chris Robinson and his crew are very professional and excellent craftsman.  Chris takes on the work with enthusiasm and deep thoughts on how to proceed with each individual project.  He does the work as if he were doing it for himself. 

From small repairs to large projects I would, and have, recommended Daggett Builders to anyone who has asked.

Additional Note Sent Nov. 2011  Great job as always! Thank you so much.  Your employees were extremely knowledgeable, polite, and professional.  They explained the job in detail and took extra steps when necessary.

Survey rating 10 out of 10

Survey Rating 10 out of 10

They answered “Yes” to each of the following questions.   Good Communication?  Clear & Detailed Contract?  Clean Jobsite? Stand Behind Our Work?  Job on Budget?  On Time?  Would you recommend us to your friends?

Were our employees polite?  Their answer was “very, always”

Do you believe that we are knowledgeable and professional? Their answer was “absolutely the best”

“Gail and I wish to express our thanks for the wonderful craftsmanship you performed on our total house renovation, including building a new garage with an apartment.

We clearly selected the right builder for our project. You were able to take Gail’s vision and with your knowledge and talent bring it to reality.

How you managed the project was as equally gratifying as the final result. You and your skilled workers treated the property as if it were your own and were always courteous, respectful and eager to inform us.

As you can imagine being 300 miles and 5 hours away from the project the majority of the time can be unsettling. However, we were completely at ease because we totally trusted what you were doing and knew you were protecting our interests.

When the project was completed there was little need for a “punch list” and when additional projects were done we were equally happy.

• Strong Communication Skills
• Skilled Craftsmen
• Completely Trustworthy

Thanks again.”